Joe emailed me a couple of his projects, the Stampe that is ready for maiden flight ( ¼ scale) power is a 38cc four stroke petrol engine.( AUW 14.5 lbs.) The racing cyclist almost ready to race but ran out of paint. AUW 20oz. 180watts of power, should be ok.( Joe’s own design ) !!!
I hope that we get to see the maiden flight this year – the photos look superb
I guess like most other members, I am missing the trip up to Little Haldon to get some flying in and meet up. With flying and meeting up off the agenda for a while, I decided to get my MTB out and cycle up to LH to take in the views. The steepest part of the climb was going out of Dawlish but once out of town the gradient reduced to a steady pant and luckily that bitter north wind was behind me. Not much traffic about although once joining the Teignmouth top road, Bsomthing, there were a few enthusiastic motors and bikes making the most of the otherwise quiet road. Turning off at the Golf course (just the groundsmen about), I made my way around the edge of the course to the gorsed moor except there is a lot less gorse than when I last went up. So much less that I initially couldn’t find the bridleway that runs along the bottom of our strip.
However, once I reached the strip I was again pleasantly surprised that the strip was in good condition and not overgrown. The wet winter seems to have filled in many of the deeper potholes and it looks ready for take-off. Carrying on to the car park and that path was also in very good condition with I think fewer ruts. Just a dog walker car in the lay-by and a fly-tipped chest of drawers (a handy tool chest) and some kitchen drawers further along the lane.
Although not flying today and without Cliff filming his virtual Corona maiden flight, it was good to just enjoy the views over to Dartmoor.
John continues to be busy in the workshop and has provided us another interesting update with photos. Over to you John:
Still working on the wings, I did not realise just how much construction was involved, I will sometime conduct a survey on exactly how many separate items were needed to complete each wing, could be surprised! Also how gradually the weight increases. Picking up the basic wing structure a month or 2 back I think “oh that feels light”, however as you keep adding pieces, balsa, ply, servos, air-brakes, linkages and cable plus the glue your opinion begins to change! Then there is still the covering…
First pic.
This shows LE being added, the trigger clamps have been thoroughly used throughout the build, really useful especially as you can place them in position and tighten with one hand whilst holding the item with the other.. Also see all 0.4 ply sheeting now on, thanks to Mike Roberts for some advice there, plus 0.4 ply rib capping and the gussets. Gluing sheet and capping was achieved by applying white glue to both surfaces and allowing to dry for about half to three quarters of an hour depending on ambient temperature then placing in position and ironing on. This gave an instant grip, I used a domestic iron on the 2 dot setting, no need to hold a curved piece as in the rib capping.
2nd Pic
Completed 2 piece canopy. The forward canopy glazing is preformed for the K7 and you cut to fit the frame and glued on with canopy glue. The rear glazing used A4 stationary separation sheet as used in a work folder, a good thickness to be firm but still flexible and super clear, from Axworthys stationers. Note that the wing does not meet at the L Edge route and the space produced is glazed too, giving the full size pilot more visibility. I have to insert an anti crush dowel across this space to minimize damage should the wings be forced forward during an abrupt arrival, a hole will need to be made in both sides of the rear canopy to allow this, should have been done before gluing perspex to the frame I reckon!
Next job carving and sanding 4 mtrs of LE.
.
John
If some newspapers are to believed, we could be facing power cuts when energy workers increasingly become ill. In these times of self isolation, we are becoming increasingly dependant on our Smart Phones and Laptops to keep in touch with friends, family and news as well as other DSSC members. With Smart Phones needing a recharge each day and laptops needing a charge after about 3 – 6 hours, an extended outage could be problematic. However, RC modellers are a resourceful bunch so all is not lost. Most modern tech can be powered or charged from a USB source.
Our car 12v accessory socket or as I still call it – the cigar lighter socket can power a USB adaptor. I have one as shown that will accept a variety of USB leads to suit different phones. Some recent cars will also have a USB socket that can recharge. I know the engine will probably need running but the heat may be useful to grill a rasher or two.
When it comes to the laptop, many current models will have a USB type C socket to take the small oval USB plug as shown below. The USB-C port / socket can be used to power or charge the laptop (the original USB-A on your laptop will not do that). So again the car can provide some power and perhaps fry an egg.
This is where us electric guys have some alternative power sources – our LiPo’s. A UBEC can normally output 5V from a range of LiPo voltages (the ones I looked at today went from 2S to several S’s) to power the receiver but as 5V is the same as USB voltage, so with a bit of soldering to a USB lead with the appropriate plug / socket on the other end of the lead and a connector to match your battery pack – we have power for our phones or laptops. You may prefer to keep the servo connector on the BEC for the future and make up a servo socket to USB lead adaptor.
The easiest way to to connect a USB plug or socket is to cut an existing lead and connect the red and black wires (via the servo adaptor) to the output from your UBEC. If it is not clear which are the 5V and gnd wires, use a multi meter to check against the USB outer pins next to the casing. Remember test that you have the correct polarity and 5V voltage before connecting your tech.
Like all helpful suggestions – do this at your own risk and have a look around YouTube to see how others have done this.
I saw a good tip on the WWW recently – To charge or discharge all our LiPo’s to a storage charge as it looks as though they will not be used for some time. I wont go through the reasons as I guess our members have more LiPo experiences than me. Anyway, it prompted me to check and I found a couple at full charge – in anticipation of some improving weather, a couple at storage and others at low charge after some recent bench testing.
Some more intriguing photo’s from Chris
A bit more progress: The full size had a all flying tailplane, I was going to do the same, but with such a small bearing width 19mm, and a tailplane at 900mm, I couldn’t stop the tailplane wobbling, at the tip, well not enough for me.
Not a problem, fix the tailplane and have a elevator, so I measured and cut out the elevator, problem no2; the elevator was going to be top hinged, 15mm at the center, tapering to 3mm at the tips. It gave a nice curve, OK when on the center line, but when you try to go down or up, the tips want to move away from the tailplane.
Plan C; split the elevator in the center, and operate with 2 servos, or make a new elevator with the top surface level, went with a split elevator.
I have made the wing spars, 2mm ply with carbon on one side, a center foam core, then carbon toes laid on top of the foam, top & bottom. The spar was then glued into the foam cores, balsa was then glued on top of the toes, so that this could be sanded down to the wing profile. Glass cloth was placed on the foam with epoxy, obechi verneer, placed on top, then epoxy brushed on top of the veneer, then tissue paper placed on the wet epoxy, mylar sheet then placed on top, and the whole lot placed in a vacbag.
Chris
Check out the photos here
Good morning Members,
In the light of Boris’s announcement flying is now off the agenda, driving to a flying field is considered non-essential travel.
I’m as frustrated as you all must now be but we, as a Club, can’t be seen to be stepping out of line.
So, unless you’re having to work, now is the time to crack on with that project you didn’t think would be ready for Spring, hopefully you’ll be maidening in the Summer.
As I type this the sky is blue, the birds are singing and there isn’t a breath of wind, how typical is that?
Although incredibly frustrating this is a serious business and we all need to follow the guidelines.
So stay safe and get building, repairing and preparing for a bumper Summer of flying.
Best Wishes to you all,
Cliff
Chairman
AK Models have a selection of second hand planes from an elderly gentleman who is selling up, here’s a short video of the models so far, Tony told me there a more to come, mostly built from plans.
Hi every one, as you probably suspected would inevitably happen we have cancelled the next April meeting at Kingsteignton. Even if we had continued turnout would sure to be low and this is the responsible action to minimise the chance of infection.
I will notify you of further cancellations as the advice comes in.
Regards
John
PS: Dont forget that although we may not see as much of each other in the coming months, we are keeping members up to date through updates and members posts and photos on our website https://dssc.bmfa.club
And by subscribing, as explained recently, you will be alerted automatically when new material comes in. We also encourage you to send in your own photos and what you are getting up to. We will post that on our website to help keep the club active during this difficult time.
First pic is the main nose skid arrangement. This is sprung by roundels of car radiator hose as seen. The skid is a strip of flexible wood screwed down at the front and held in place at the rear by a brass strip, which is a flattened curtain fitting. The skid can move under the brass on compression e.g. a hard landing. Check it out in the Gallery
Second picture is the front canopy frame, constructed with a balsa ply sandwich and reinforced with a little carbon tow as seen…all feels pretty rigid without looking too chunky.
John